What Is Madecassoside 98% Powder?
Madecassoside 98% Powder is a highly purified triterpene glycoside isolated from Centella asiatica (Cica/Gotu Kola), standardised to a minimum 98% assay. CAS: 184437-39-0; INCI: Madecassoside; molecular formula: C₅₂H₈₄O₂₁; MW: 1031.22 g/mol. Madecassoside is the glycosylated form of madecassic acid — one of the primary bioactive triterpenes responsible for Centella asiatica’s clinically validated wound healing, anti-inflammatory, and collagen-stimulating properties. At 98% purity, this is a precision active: not a broad-spectrum botanical extract, but the specific isolated compound responsible for the most studied and documented mechanisms of Cica activity.
For those new to actives, Cica (Centella asiatica) is one of the most popular skin-soothing ingredients in modern skincare — you’ll see it in products marketed for sensitive, compromised, and post-procedure skin worldwide, particularly in K-beauty. Madecassoside is the single most important bioactive compound that makes Cica work. At 98% purity, you’re working with the concentrated essence of Cica’s healing activity — making it dramatically more potent and dose-controllable than a whole-plant extract. Think of it as the difference between eating an orange for Vitamin C versus using pure L-Ascorbic Acid: same source, but precise and powerful.
At the expert level, madecassoside operates through several validated mechanisms. It directly stimulates TGF-β1 (transforming growth factor beta-1) signalling, upregulating procollagen I and III synthesis in dermal fibroblasts — the foundational mechanism behind its anti-aging and wound-healing efficacy. It inhibits NF-κB transcription factor activation, suppressing the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-1β, IL-6, TNF-α) and reducing inflammatory mediators across the inflammatory cascade. Madecassoside also activates VEGF-mediated angiogenesis to support tissue repair and improves epidermal barrier function by upregulating involucrin, filaggrin, and loricrin expression. Its molecular weight (1031.22 g/mol) is high for a water-phase active, meaning it primarily functions at the epidermal surface and upper dermal interface — ideal for barrier repair and anti-inflammatory surface activity.
Key Benefits
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TGF-β1-Mediated Collagen Stimulation — Upregulates procollagen I and III synthesis in dermal fibroblasts for measurable anti-aging and skin firming activity
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Potent Anti-Inflammatory — Inhibits NF-κB activation and suppresses IL-1β, IL-6, and TNF-α; calms acute and chronic skin inflammation, redness, and reactivity
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Wound Healing & Tissue Repair — Activates VEGF-mediated angiogenesis and accelerates epidermal and dermal repair processes
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Barrier Reinforcement — Upregulates filaggrin, involucrin, and loricrin to strengthen the stratum corneum and reduce TEWL
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Antioxidant — Scavenges free radicals and reduces oxidative stress-driven skin damage and premature aging
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98% Min. Assay — Isolated, precision-purity active; dramatically more potent and dose-controllable than whole Centella extract
Applications
- Post-procedure recovery and barrier restoration serums
- Sensitive, reactive, and rosacea-prone skin formulations
- Cica-concept soothing moisturizers and balms
- Anti-aging collagen-stimulating serums
- Wound-supportive and compromised skin repair treatments
- After-sun and environmental stress recovery formulations
Formulation Details
| Property |
Detail |
| INCI Name |
Madecassoside |
| CAS Number |
184437-39-0 |
| Molecular Formula |
C₅₂H₈₄O₂₁ |
| Molecular Weight |
1031.22 g/mol |
| Assay |
≥98% |
| Appearance |
White to off-white powder |
| Solubility |
Water-soluble |
| Recommended Use Level |
0.1–0.5% |
| Incorporation Phase |
Water phase |
| Processing Temperature |
Dissolve in warm water (≤40°C) |
| pH Stability |
Stable at pH 4.0–7.0 |
| Grade |
Cosmetic |
| Country of Origin |
France |
💡 Madecassoside vs. Gotu Kola Extract: Madecassoside 98% is the isolated purified compound — precise, potent, and dose-controlled. Gotu Kola Extract Powder 10% delivers the full-spectrum triterpene profile (madecassoside + asiaticoside + asiatic acid + madecassic acid) at a standardised 10% triterpene content. Both are excellent — use madecassoside when you want maximum anti-inflammatory and collagen precision; use Gotu Kola Extract for broad-spectrum Cica activity.
How to Formulate With Madecassoside 98% Powder
Beginner tip: Dissolve madecassoside in a small portion of warm water (≤40°C) first, then add to your main water phase. It dissolves readily and requires no special processing. Start at 0.2% in a soothing serum or post-procedure recovery cream alongside Allantoin and Panthenol for a simple, highly effective sensitive-skin formula.
Expert notes:
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Phase: Water phase; dissolve in warm water (≤40°C) before combining with other water-phase ingredients
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Usage Rate: 0.1–0.5%; 0.2% delivers meaningful anti-inflammatory activity; 0.3–0.5% for intensive post-procedure recovery or targeted collagen stimulation
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pH: Stable across pH 4.0–7.0; most effective in slightly acidic to neutral formulas
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Synergies: Exceptional with Allantoin (complementary wound-healing and soothing mechanisms), Adenosine (TGF-β1 + adenosine receptor collagen stimulation synergy for dual anti-aging), Niacinamide (barrier + anti-inflammatory amplification), Beta Glucan (immunomodulatory + wound-healing support), Gotu Kola Extract (full-spectrum Cica complement to the isolated compound), and DL-Panthenol (humectant + tissue repair synergy)
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Stability: Stable in aqueous formulas at pH 4.0–7.0; avoid prolonged exposure to temperatures above 50°C
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Preservation: Always include a broad-spectrum preservative in aqueous formulas — we recommend Geogard ECT at 0.5–1.0%
Pairings — Build a Better Formula
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Allantoin Powder — Classic wound-healing and soothing active that pairs with Madecassoside for a comprehensive tissue repair and skin calming duo
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Adenosine Powder 99% — Adenosine receptor-mediated collagen stimulation that stacks with Madecassoside’s TGF-β1 pathway for dual-mechanism anti-aging and skin firming
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Gotu Kola Extract Powder 10% — Full-spectrum Centella asiatica triterpene extract that complements pure Madecassoside for complete Cica-concept formulation
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80% Beta Glucan Powder — Immunomodulatory polysaccharide that amplifies wound-healing and barrier-repair signalling alongside Madecassoside
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Niacinamide Vitamin B3 Powder — Barrier-upregulating and anti-inflammatory active that complements Madecassoside’s filaggrin/involucrin stimulation
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DL-Panthenol Powder — Provitamin B5 humectant and tissue repair active that creates a complete soothing + hydrating + healing serum alongside Madecassoside
Suggested Formula
A premium post-procedure and sensitive skin recovery serum combining Madecassoside’s TGF-β1 collagen stimulation and NF-κB anti-inflammatory activity with Adenosine, Allantoin, Beta Glucan, and Niacinamide for multi-mechanism skin repair and barrier restoration.
Method: Hydrate HA LMW in warm distilled water (≤40°C). Dissolve Madecassoside and Adenosine separately in small portions of warm water. Dissolve Niacinamide, Allantoin, Beta Glucan, and Panthenol in bulk water phase. Combine all Phase A components and stir until fully homogeneous. At cool-down (≤40°C), add Geogard ECT (Phase B). Adjust pH to 5.0–6.5. Fill into airless pump or dropper bottle.
Target pH: 5.0–6.5
Recommended use: Apply to cleansed skin morning and/or evening. Ideal for post-procedure skin, reactive skin, or any time the skin barrier needs gentle, clinical-level repair and soothing support.
Storage & Shelf Life
- Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and moisture
- Keep container tightly sealed when not in use
- Shelf life: 24 months unopened from date of manufacture
- MFG: JUL 2026 | EXP: JUL 2028
Safety & Handling
- For external use only — not for internal consumption
- Avoid contact with eyes; if contact occurs, rinse thoroughly with water
- Conduct a patch test before use in finished formulations
- Keep out of reach of children
- Refer to the Safety Data Sheet (SDS) for full handling and safety information: SDS