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Pure Actives

Cholesterol NF Powder — Cosmetic Grade

Cholesterol NF Powder — Cosmetic Grade

Regular price $19.99 CAD
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Description

What Is Cholesterol NF?

Cholesterol NF is a pharmaceutical/cosmetic-grade cholesterol powder derived from lanolin (sheep’s wool grease), meeting National Formulary (NF) purity standards. Cholesterol is an essential structural lipid found naturally in the skin’s stratum corneum — one of the three critical lipids (alongside ceramides and fatty acids) that form the skin’s lamellar lipid matrix and maintain an intact, functional skin barrier.

If you’re new to formulating, cholesterol is one of the most important barrier-repair ingredients you can work with. Skin barrier dysfunction is at the root of conditions like eczema, rosacea, dry skin, and sensitivity. Replenishing stratum corneum cholesterol alongside ceramides and fatty acids helps restore barrier integrity, reduce water loss, and calm reactive skin. It’s used at low levels (0.5–3.0%), works in both emulsions and anhydrous formulas, and is well-tolerated by all skin types.

For experienced formulators: Cholesterol NF serves a structural role in the intercellular lamellar body lipid system of the stratum corneum. It is typically formulated as part of a physiological lipid ratio alongside ceramides and free fatty acids — the classic molar ratio being approximately 1:1:1 (ceramide:cholesterol:fatty acid). In emulsions, cholesterol functions as a co-emulsifier and lamellar phase stabilizer, improving emulsion structure and skin feel. It is oil-phase soluble and requires incorporation above its melting point (~147°C in pure form, but lower in lipid blends).

Key Benefits

  • Critical skin barrier lipid — one of the three essential stratum corneum lipids; replenishes barrier structure and improves barrier function
  • Reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) — restores lamellar lipid matrix integrity to lock in moisture and reduce skin dryness
  • Supports sensitive, compromised, and eczema-prone skin — helps restore the disrupted lipid barrier in reactive and atopic skin conditions
  • Co-emulsifier and emulsion stabilizer — improves emulsion structure, stability, and skin feel in emulsion formulas
  • Anti-aging support — skin cholesterol synthesis declines with age; topical replenishment helps restore youthful barrier function and skin texture
  • Post-procedure and recovery formulations — ideal for use in formulas targeting skin recovery after peels, laser, or environmental damage
  • Pharmaceutical/NF purity grade — high purity standard suitable for both cosmetic and topical pharmaceutical applications

Applications

  • Barrier-repair moisturizers and creams
  • Eczema and atopic dermatitis formulations
  • Sensitive skin and reactive skin care products
  • Anti-aging formulas targeting mature or lipid-depleted skin
  • Post-procedure and post-peel recovery creams
  • Physiological lipid complex formulas (with ceramides + fatty acids)
  • Emollients, body butters, and occlusive treatments
  • Pharmaceutical-grade topical preparations

Formulation Details

Property Detail
INCI Name Cholesterol
CAS Number 57-88-5
Grade NF (National Formulary) — Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Grade
Source Lanolin-derived (ovine — sheep wool grease)
Appearance White to Off-White Crystalline Powder or Flakes
Odour Faint, characteristic
Melting Point ~147°C (pure); melts at lower temperatures in lipid blends
Solubility Oil-phase soluble; insoluble in water. Soluble in chloroform, ethanol, and most oils at elevated temperatures.
Recommended Use Level 0.5–3.0% in emulsions; up to 5.0% in intensive barrier-repair or pharmaceutical formulas
Incorporation Phase Oil phase — must be melted into the oil phase at elevated temperature
Processing Temperature Heat oil phase to 75–80°C to ensure full dissolution before emulsification
pH Stability Stable across cosmetic pH ranges

How to Formulate With Cholesterol NF

Beginner tip: Cholesterol is an oil-phase ingredient that needs heat to dissolve. Weigh it into your oil phase and heat to 75–80°C, stirring until fully melted and clear, before combining with your water phase. Start at 1.0% and combine with Ceramide Powder for a basic barrier-repair cream.

Expert notes:

  • Phase: Oil phase. Must be fully melted before emulsification. In lipid blends, melting point is significantly reduced — cholesterol dissolves readily in warm oils.
  • Usage rate: 0.5–1.0% for general barrier support in moisturizers; 1.0–3.0% in targeted barrier-repair formulas; up to 5.0% in intensive or pharmaceutical-grade preparations.
  • Physiological lipid ratio: For maximum barrier-repair efficacy, formulate as part of a 1:1:1 molar ratio with ceramides and a long-chain fatty acid (e.g., palmitic or stearic acid). This ratio mirrors the natural stratum corneum lipid composition.
  • Co-emulsifier function: At 1–2%, cholesterol acts as a co-emulsifier and lamellar phase stabilizer in emulsions, improving texture and skin feel without contributing greasiness.
  • Pairing with ceramides: Ceramide Powder and Water-Soluble Ceramide Complex are the ideal co-actives. Together they form a physiological lipid complex that closely mimics the stratum corneum’s own lipid matrix.
  • Pairing with Phytosphingosine: Phytosphingosine complements cholesterol by providing ceramide precursor activity and additional anti-inflammatory support in barrier-repair formulas.

Pairings — Build a Better Formula

Cholesterol NF performs best as part of a multi-lipid barrier complex. These verified store actives are its ideal partners:

  • Ceramide Powder — the essential barrier-repair pairing; together cholesterol + ceramide restore the lamellar lipid matrix of the stratum corneum
  • Water-Soluble Ceramide Complex Powder — a pre-complexed ceramide blend for easier incorporation; pair with Cholesterol NF in emulsions and water-based formulas
  • Phytosphingosine Powder — sphingoid base and ceramide precursor; anti-inflammatory and barrier-restorative; completes the physiological lipid trio alongside cholesterol and ceramides
  • Olive Squalane Oil — lightweight, stable emollient carrier for cholesterol in both emulsions and anhydrous barrier-repair formulas
  • Sodium Hyaluronate Powder — humectant hydration for the water phase of any barrier-repair moisturizer
  • Allantoin Powder — soothing and skin-conditioning; ideal addition to sensitive skin and eczema-prone formulas alongside Cholesterol NF
  • DL-Panthenol Powder (Provitamin B5) — skin-healing and conditioning; adds wound-recovery and moisture-retention support alongside barrier lipids

Suggested Formula — Physiological Barrier Repair Cream

A rich, emollient barrier-repair cream formulated around the physiological lipid ratio of ceramide, cholesterol, and fatty acid.

Ingredient % Phase
Distilled Water q.s. to 100% A – Water
Sodium Hyaluronate Powder 0.1% A – Water
Allantoin Powder 0.5% A – Water
DL-Panthenol Powder 2.0% A – Water
Emulsifying Wax NF (or BTMS-50) 5.0% B – Oil
Olive Squalane Oil 10.0% B – Oil
Cholesterol NF Powder 1.5% B – Oil (melt at 75–80°C)
Ceramide Powder 1.0% B – Oil
Phytosphingosine Powder 0.5% B – Oil
Geogard ECT Preservative 1.0% C – Cool Down (<40°C)

Method: Heat Phase A (water) and Phase B (oil) separately to 75–80°C, ensuring cholesterol and ceramide are fully melted into the oil phase. Add Phase B slowly to Phase A with continuous stirring or homogenization. Continue mixing while cooling. At below 40°C, add Phase C preservative. Adjust pH to 5.0–6.0.

Target pH: 5.0–6.0 | Recommended use: Apply to cleansed skin morning and/or evening. Ideal for dry, sensitive, eczema-prone, or mature skin. Can be used on face and body.

Storage & Shelf Life

  • Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight, heat, and humidity
  • Keep container tightly sealed — hygroscopic; absorbs moisture if left open
  • Shelf life: 24 months unopened when stored correctly

Safety & Handling

  • For cosmetic/external use only — not for internal consumption
  • Avoid inhalation of powder dust — use in a well-ventilated area or wear a dust mask when handling
  • Avoid contact with eyes; rinse thoroughly with water if contact occurs
  • Always conduct a patch test in your finished formulation before use
  • Keep out of reach of children
  • Refer to the Safety Data Sheet (SDS) for full handling and disposal information

Suggested Usage & Formulation

Technical Data

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