How to Use Coco Caprylate/Caprate in Skincare Formulations: Emollient, Solvent & Formulation Guide
Partager
Formulate Lighter, Faster, Better — The Emollient That Does It All
Welcome to The Formulator's Lab. This guide covers everything you need to know to confidently work with Coco Caprylate/Caprate — a premium, coconut-derived emollient and solvent that has become a staple in modern skincare formulation for its exceptional skin feel, versatility, and clean-beauty positioning.
Important Disclaimer: This guide is for educational purposes only. We strongly recommend consulting with a qualified cosmetic chemist before creating any skincare formulation. Always perform patch tests and follow proper safety protocols when formulating cosmetics.
What Is Coco Caprylate/Caprate?
Coco Caprylate/Caprate is a mixed ester derived from coconut fatty alcohols and caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) fatty acids. It is produced through esterification of coconut-derived coco alcohol with the medium-chain fatty acids caprylic acid and capric acid, resulting in a lightweight, low-viscosity liquid ester with outstanding spreadability and a non-greasy skin feel.
Unlike heavier plant oils or mineral oil-derived emollients, Coco Caprylate/Caprate sits at the intersection of performance and elegance — it spreads effortlessly, absorbs quickly, and leaves no occlusive residue. It is also an effective solvent for oil-soluble actives and UV filters, making it a dual-function ingredient in both leave-on and rinse-off formulations.
Coco Caprylate/Caprate at a Glance
INCI Name: Coco Caprylate/Caprate
CAS Number: 90411-68-0
Form: Clear to pale yellow liquid
Odour: Mild, characteristic fatty odour (essentially odourless in formulation)
Solubility: Oil-soluble; not water-soluble — incorporate in the oil phase
Typical Usage Range: 2–25% (2–5% for light skin feel; 10–25% in anhydrous or richer formulations)
pH Compatibility: Not pH-sensitive — stable across all cosmetic pH ranges
Incorporation Phase: Oil phase (Phase B in emulsions); can be used as the sole or partial oil phase
Heat Stability: Excellent — stable at standard processing temperatures (up to 80°C)
HLB Value: Not applicable (oil-phase ingredient; does not require HLB matching)
Compatibility: Broad — compatible with most emulsifiers, waxes, silicones, actives, and UV filters
Shelf Life: Typically 24–36 months; store in a cool, dark place away from direct light and heat
Skin Benefits & Functional Properties
Lightweight Emolliency & Skin Feel
Coco Caprylate/Caprate is prized above all for its skin feel. It spreads with exceptional ease, imparts a silky, non-tacky finish, and absorbs rapidly without leaving a greasy or occlusive film. This makes it the go-to emollient for formulators targeting lightweight textures — fluid moisturizers, fast-absorbing body oils, and serum-weight lotions where heavy oils would compromise the sensory experience. [1]
Emollient & Barrier Support
As an emollient, Coco Caprylate/Caprate fills the spaces between corneocytes in the stratum corneum, smoothing skin texture and temporarily reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Its medium-chain fatty acid composition (C8/C10) is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin, as these chain lengths are less likely to trigger comedogenicity compared to longer-chain fatty acids. [2]
Solvent for Oil-Soluble Actives & UV Filters
One of Coco Caprylate/Caprate's most valuable formulation properties is its ability to dissolve and carry oil-soluble ingredients. It is an effective solvent for:
Oil-soluble vitamins (Vitamin E / Tocopherol, Vitamin A / Retinol, fat-soluble Vitamin C esters)
UV filters (Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Avobenzone, Octocrylene)
Lipophilic actives (Bakuchiol, Squalane-soluble peptides, oil-soluble botanical extracts)
Fragrance and essential oils
This dual role as both emollient and solvent reduces the need for additional carrier oils or solvents, simplifying formulation and improving cost efficiency. [3]
Silicone Alternative
Coco Caprylate/Caprate is widely used as a natural, biodegradable alternative to cyclopentasiloxane (D5) and other volatile silicones in formulations where a silky, fast-absorbing skin feel is desired without synthetic silicone ingredients. It is a strong choice for clean-beauty and natural-positioned product lines. [1]
Why Formulators Love It
Exceptional lightweight skin feel — silky, non-greasy, fast-absorbing
Dual function: emollient + solvent in a single ingredient
Natural, coconut-derived origin — clean-beauty and COSMOS-compatible
Low comedogenicity — suitable for oily, acne-prone, and sensitive skin
Broad compatibility with emulsifiers, waxes, silicones, and actives
Effective silicone alternative for natural formulations
Excellent stability — resistant to oxidation compared to unsaturated plant oils
Formulation Considerations
Incorporation & Phase Behaviour
Coco Caprylate/Caprate is an oil-phase ingredient and must be incorporated into the oil phase (Phase B) of emulsions. It is not water-soluble and will not disperse in the water phase without an emulsifier. In anhydrous formulations (balms, body oils, serums), it can be used as the primary or sole liquid oil component.
It is liquid at room temperature and requires no melting or pre-heating, though it is fully stable at standard emulsion processing temperatures (70–80°C).
Usage Rate Guidelines
2–5%: Light skin feel in fluid emulsions, serums, and toners with an oil phase
5–15%: Standard emollient level in moisturizers, lotions, and body creams
15–25%: Rich emolliency in body oils, facial oils, and anhydrous balms
Up to 100%: As a carrier oil or single-ingredient facial/body oil
Solubility & Solvent Use
When using Coco Caprylate/Caprate as a solvent for oil-soluble actives, pre-dissolve the active in a small portion of the ester before adding to the full oil phase. This ensures complete dissolution and prevents undissolved particles in the final formulation. For UV filters, follow the filter manufacturer's recommended dissolution temperature.
Emulsifier Compatibility
Coco Caprylate/Caprate is compatible with a wide range of emulsifier systems including:
Olivem 1000 (Cetearyl Olivate/Sorbitan Olivate)
Polawax / Emulsifying Wax NF
Montanov 68 (Cetearyl Alcohol/Cetearyl Glucoside)
Arlacel 165 (Glyceryl Stearate/PEG-100 Stearate)
Natural emulsifier systems (BTMS, Ecomulse, Ritamulse SCG)
No special HLB adjustments are required — treat it as a standard low-polarity ester in your oil phase calculations.
Oxidative Stability
Unlike polyunsaturated plant oils (rosehip, hemp seed, evening primrose), Coco Caprylate/Caprate is highly resistant to oxidative rancidity due to its saturated and medium-chain fatty acid composition. This significantly extends the shelf life of formulations and reduces the need for high antioxidant loading. A standard 0.1–0.5% Tocopherol (Vitamin E) addition is sufficient for most formulations.
Formulation Example: Lightweight Barrier Moisturizer
This is an educational reference formula. Adjust percentages based on your specific formulation goals, equipment, and regulatory requirements. Always conduct stability and safety testing before use.
Phase A — Water Phase:
Distilled Water (deionized): to 100%
Glycerine (cosmetic grade): 3.0%
Sodium Hyaluronate (high molecular weight): 0.05%
Allantoin Powder: 0.2%
Phase B — Oil Phase:
Coco Caprylate/Caprate: 10.0%
Emulsifying Wax (e.g., Olivem 1000 or Polawax): 5.0%
Cetyl Alcohol: 1.0%
Tocopherol (Vitamin E): 0.3%
Phase C — Actives (add below 40°C):
Panthenol (D-Panthenol): 1.0%
Niacinamide: 3.0%
Sodium Hyaluronate (low molecular weight): 0.05%
Phase D — Preservation & pH Adjustment:
Broad-spectrum preservative system: per manufacturer recommendation (typically 0.5–1.0%)
pH adjuster (Sodium Hydroxide 10% solution or Citric Acid 10% solution): as needed
Target pH: 5.0–6.0
General Process:
Step 1: Prepare your workspace. Sanitize all equipment with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Wear gloves and safety glasses.
Step 2: Build Phase A. Combine distilled water, glycerine, high-MW sodium hyaluronate, and allantoin in a heat-resistant beaker. Heat to 70–75°C with gentle stirring until all solids are fully dissolved.
Step 3: Build Phase B. Combine Coco Caprylate/Caprate, emulsifying wax, cetyl alcohol, and tocopherol in a separate heat-resistant beaker. Heat to 70–75°C until all waxes are fully melted and the phase is homogeneous.
Step 4: Combine phases. With both phases at the same temperature (70–75°C), slowly pour Phase B into Phase A with continuous stirring or homogenization. Mix until a stable emulsion forms.
Step 5: Cool with stirring. Allow the emulsion to cool to below 40°C with continuous gentle stirring to maintain homogeneity and prevent separation.
Step 6: Add Phase C actives. Once below 40°C, add panthenol, niacinamide, and low-MW sodium hyaluronate one at a time, stirring thoroughly after each addition.
Step 7: Adjust pH. Test with a calibrated pH meter. Adjust to pH 5.0–6.0 using diluted sodium hydroxide (to raise) or citric acid (to lower). Add drop by drop and retest frequently.
Step 8: Add preservative. Once pH is confirmed and temperature is below 40°C, add your preservative system and mix for 2–3 minutes.
Step 9: Final check & bottle. Perform a final pH test, transfer to sterilized airtight packaging, and label with batch number, date, and full ingredient list.
Complementary Ingredients to Explore
Panthenol (D-Panthenol) → — Barrier support and soothing; pairs naturally with Coco Caprylate/Caprate in lightweight moisturizers
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) → — Barrier reinforcement and sebum regulation; a high-performance water-phase pairing
Allantoin Powder → — Calming and skin-conditioning; enhances the soothing profile of lightweight emulsions
Ectoine Powder → — Deep hydration and barrier repair; combine with Coco Caprylate/Caprate for a clinically-inspired barrier moisturizer
Safety Guidelines & Best Practices
Before You Begin:
Research each ingredient thoroughly and understand maximum safe usage rates
Use a digital scale accurate to 0.01g — kitchen scales are not sufficient for cosmetic formulation
Work in a clean, sanitized environment
Keep detailed formulation records including batch numbers, supplier lot numbers, and dates
Patch Testing Protocol:
Apply a small amount to the inner forearm
Cover with a bandage and leave for 24–48 hours
Check for redness, itching, or irritation
If any reaction occurs, do not use the product
Stability & Shelf Life:
Store finished formulations in dark, airtight containers
Typical shelf life with proper preservation: 12–24 months (longer than formulations containing unsaturated oils)
Monitor for changes in colour, odour, or texture — discard if any occur
Conduct accelerated stability testing (40°C/75% RH for 8–12 weeks) before commercial release
Scientific References
[1] Fiume, M.M., et al. (2015). Safety assessment of Coco Caprylate/Caprate as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 34(2_suppl), 5S–19S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581815576649
[2] Loden, M. (2003). Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 4(11), 771–788. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304110-00005
[3] Becker, L.C., et al. (2012). Final report of the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel on the safety assessment of alkyl esters of fatty acids. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(5_suppl), 5S–36S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812461551
Disclaimer: This content is for educational purposes only and should not replace professional cosmetic formulation advice. Pure Actives Co. is not responsible for formulations created using this guide. Always conduct proper safety testing, use appropriate preservation, and perform patch tests before using any DIY cosmetic product. If you are formulating for sale, ensure compliance with all relevant cosmetic regulations in your jurisdiction.